Derby and Gibb River Road

 

After Broome was Derby, which is an easy drive from Broome where you stock up on food and fuel in preparation for the rugged Gibb River Road, 600kms of rough rocky road, that’s without any side trips.

 

At Derby we enjoyed the fantastic sunset over Derby wharf and also Dinner of Barramundi at the Wharf Restaurant. Jayne was all seafooded out so she had mega Lamb Shanks.

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Then all loaded up, we hit the GRR and our 1st stop was Charnley River Station, which is 42kms off the GRR. The camping here even had grass! We haven’t had a grass camping site since Perth, I think, so this was a definite treat after all the dusty sandy experiences until then.

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They have 4 gorges to drive to, and the three we did were very good. Swimming at Lilly Gorge was an experience as it was about 30C hiking into there, but the water felt like it had ice in it. Jayne wussed out and only got in up to her knees, I at least had a full swim, so be it that it was very short.

 

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We ended up staying there 3 nights due to the grass and supplied firewood with fresh water at the van making the camping experience very comfortable.

 

Our next stop was Mornington Wildlife Camp which is 90kms off the GRR in the other direction. This place is owned by the Australian Wildlife Conservancy and is a paradise for birds. It also has the Diamond Gorge in it which is reportedly the best gorge in the Kimberley. It’s a further 25kms on from the camp, but we at least didn’t have to tow the van there.

 

Jayne liked Mornington whereas I preferred Charnley as the camping was more open and with more sunlight and grass, whereas Mornington was very claustrophobic, shaded and dusty. The road into Mornington was excellent for the 1st 70kms as this lead to the Tableland Aboriginal Community (Yulumbu) but once you passed the turnoff to Tableland, Mornington are responsible for the road and it was just rocks. The last 20kms took us over an hour! This included a river crossing which had a bend in it, so you drive into the creek (about 300mm deep) and then have to turn up the creek before you get to the exit and you can't see the exit until you're actually in the creek. It feels like you’re driving up the creek bed.

 

We drove the 25kms up to Diamond Gorge (1+ hour each way) and hired one of their canoes for a paddle up the gorge. It was very nice and peaceful.

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We took our gas BBQ and enjoyed chilli BBQ sausages in bread rolls for lunch on one of the sandy beaches in the gorge. After two nights in Mornington it was time to leave.

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With all these extra side trips off the main road we were starting to run low on diesel and I thought we may have to use what we had left in the diesel heater to get to Mt Barnett Roadhouse. But we made it with a few litres to spare in the car and didn’t have to dive into the diesel heater’s reserves. We had to take on 136 litres of diesel at $2.05/litre! And we were very concerned about the quality of the diesel there as our friends Roy and Marg had big issues with their car after taking on fuel at Mt Barnett Roadhouse.

 

Then we went into Manning River Gorge and enjoyed a cooling off swim after setting up the van in 32 heat. The water was very nice and even Jayne got totally in.

 

The camping at Manning River is basic, no water but we were able to get water at the roadhouse before we ventured the 7 kms to the gorge. By this time we were running low on clean clothes so out came the generator and Jayne did two loads of washing. She was worried what the other campers there would think when they saw all our clothes hanging out to dry in the middle of nowhere, but luckily they dried in minutes and she was able to save herself from that shame.

 

Despite it being over 30 during the day, in the mornings it got down to 5C so its rug up and have a coffee etc., then change into your shorts and tee-shirts as it warms up by 7.30am. By 10am it’s time for a swim!

 

From Manning River Gorge we headed to the Gibb River Crossing for a nights camping and on arrival we found the fridge door hinge was broken. We were warned in Broome that this was weak link in this brand of refrigerator, so it wasn’t surprising. A quick drive 60kms up the road to Drysdale River Station with the hinge in hand and $10 later the hinge was welded and we were back on our way to Gibb River Crossing. Luckily this 60kms of road had recently been graded and this was a very easy drive. We needed to fill with diesel at Drysdale due to these extra kms, at $2.08/litre! That's the highest price we've seen this trip.

 

We went to Russ Creek and camped the night there. We had the whole place to ourselves except for the Rosellas which grow wild there. We didn’t even know Rosellas were a plant, only knowing them as a bird. These plants opened their bright red flowers in the sun and closed them up in the shade and you could see them do this in front of your eyes.

 

We had a drink to Russ at Russ Creek.

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It was then onto Home Valley Station for our last night on the GRR. Overall the condition of the road was terrible, and after over 1,200kms of this we are both totally over the dirt roads! However the Touareg performed exceptionally well and without further problems restoring my faith in them. Thankfully we don’t have to buy a Landcruiser now.

Home Valley Station was nice and it wasn't cold in the morning, we woke to 18ºC so we were able to sit outside for our morning coffee and breakfast for the 1st time in months!

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It’s nice to have a car and van that are stronger at handling the dirt and rough roads than what we are! After these dirt roads we can't wait to wash the dust off the van and car. Every time we touch the outside of them we’re covered in red dust. At one stage we were down to 10kms/hour and our teeth were still being severely rattled from the corrugations and sharp rocks that make up what they loosely call a road. The condition of the GRR changes almost daily with the amount of traffic that’s on it during these peak times. We didn't get a flat tyre, whew that was a relief.

 

We’re now in Wyndham 10 days after leaving Derby and again have phone service. Wyndham is a quaint little town at the north-east end of Western Australia and we’re stay at the Parry Creek Farm www.parrycreekfarm.com.au which is alive with birdlife and just a nice place to rest with grass camping sites, well they were once grass!

 

Tomorrow we’re off to Kununurra for a few days of washing the car and van, shopping and restocking the van.